Harvest Highs II

Spain

Rioja The Rioja harvest is currently in progress with forecasts of a bumper crop of 400 million kg, possibly the largest on record. Picking started slightly late for some producers, with the delayed ripening blamed on a cool September and drought-induced vine stress. Mike Hothersall, area director of Codornu UK, said: "In Rioja the quality of the fruit is looking absolutely excellent. As for quantity, it is still early days yet as we are just starting the harvest."

Navarra The vintage started in mid-September and was still in progress as we went to press. Reports so far indicate a far larger harvest than last year, with the amount of grapes looking to reach 100 million kg. Conchi Birrun of the Associacin Exportadores de Navarra, said: "It is regarded as one of the finest quality in recent years." However, rain is leading to uncertainty of how the grapes yet to be harvested will be affected.

Peneds Heavy rainfall in June was reported in Catalonia, which ensured many grapes have built up good levels of water reserves. Torres reported isolated storms in July and August, which resulted in the loss of 50,000 kg of Chardonnay from one vineyard. However the harvest period has been looking good, with warm and sunny weather. Torres said: "If the weather stays the same, the last harvest of the Millennium will be very good for almost all of the varieties of grapes grown in Peneds and Catalonia."

Cava Favourable conditions appear to have resulted in good-quality grapes for Cava. At Raimat, Codornu reported: "The lack of spring frosts and rain during the ripening season, together with the absence of diseases and the healthy state of the vines, have been determining factors that have influenced quality." The company is also pleased with the quality of the grapes for the Codornu Cavas, which although smaller than the previous year, appear to be superior in both quality and health due to the dry conditions.

Jerez A lack of rain throughout 2000 has meant another low grape harvest. Seventy million litres of must were produced this vintage, 10% less than in 1999. The new crop should provide sufficient replacement of mature stocks with new wine, although total stocks in the area are too high, with supply and demand again out of balance. The agricultural report refers to the high quality of the wine, which has natural alcohol levels between 11% and 12% ABV. Martin Skelton, regional sales director of Gonzlez Byass, said that unlike most producers in the region, its harvest was actually up 10%. He added: "At the start of the harvest we were seeing Baum levels of 12. By the end it was 13, which is quite standard in the good years." In Sanlcar de Barrameda, Tim Holt from Vinicola Hidalgo SA said: "We had an excellent quality harvest this year with the volume down about 10%. Hail in the early spring cut the total bud growth but was sufficiently early in the spring for the vines to recover to almost full production. This quality/quantity change has been the case for the Sherry region as a whole, although some vineyards are 40% down on last year."

Portugal The 2000 vintage in Portugal is not expected to surpass 5.6 million hl this year, due to a rainy April and May which affected the flowering. Despite being 40% down on last year, weather conditions in late spring and summer were said to have been the best in the last five years, with the 2000 vintage promising to be the best quality in the last ten years. Peter Bright said: "This year has been generally good for reds. We did have rain in September in coastal regions such as Bairrada and Estremadura, but the standard is pretty good. However, the whites have not been as good as in previous years." Joaquim Roque, winemaker at Alentejo winery, Quinta do Carmo, said: "No rain since the middle of May has been good for quality, but two localised hailstorms reduced our production. This has meant there has been no bulk, but the wines are of good concentration."

Douro As the harvest came to an end in the Douro there was speculation that yields were down by 30% on last year's average harvest, although the quality was judged to be high. The harvest was punctuated by intermittent storms and hot weather, but finished with sunshine and warm temperatures. The authorisation for Port production was 190,000 pipes against the world annual sales forecast of 180,000, which suggests that more of the region's grapes will be used this year for Port than table wine. Yields were low this year due to rain and mildew during flowering. However, the warm summer followed by short rain showers in August, produced good-quality grapes. Although it is too soon for the Port houses to commit themselves, it looks hopeful that 2000 will be a declared year. At Quinta de Noval, international sales director, Dan Connolly said: "At this early stage it is difficult to judge how the wines from the 2000 harvest will compare to other years. However, we are generally very pleased with the quality of the fruit we harvested from the Quinta and that produced by the growers in the Douro. Weather conditions during the harvest were good. As a result we harvested healthy grapes with concentrated juice and good sugar levels." Taylor's and Fonseca were also pleased with the quality. Adrian Bridge, managing director, reported: "The majority of our grapes were picked just before the rain began and this, coupled with the exceptional fruit quality received at all our quintas, means that we are optimistic about the Ports which will be made from the 2000 harvest. Already the wines are showing an impressive extraction of colour, flavour and tannin."

Germany The 2000 vintage, which is still in progress at the time of writing, was one of the earliest in living memory and since records began. An unusually early blossoming of the vine at the end of April and beginning of May was followed by a hot summer, which accelerated the growth of the vines in early June. After a promising start, rain in September has caused problems, but growers with grapes still on the vine are hoping for the possibility of dry weather in the coming weeks to aid quality. Forecasts that this year would bring high volumes have been contested by winemakers such as Ernst Loosen in the Pfalz and Mosel, who claimed difficult weather in September has resulted in smaller quantities. Loosen said: "This year will be a moderate yield vintage, not like the large quantities seen last year."

Mosel Rain appears to have hit the Mosel quite hard, although Max Ferd of the Richter Estate said that its vineyards had not been affected due to the steep slopes and good drainage. Loosen said: "In the Mosel it has been quite a difficult vintage as September's rain really slowed down the ripening. We have 30% to 50% botrytis, which through botrytis selection means we should be able to reach Auslese level. This will be in small quantities. The green grapes that are left on the vine are only Kabinett level, but if we keep the grapes all together we can produce a Sptlese."

Pfalz The Pfalz was not so badly affected by the rain, with Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir said to be looking nearly as ripe as last year, but with higher acidity levels.

Rheingau Rain in July and August led to diseases in the Rheingau, with some winegrowers reporting rotten grapes. However, growers who protected the berries appear to have suffered less at the hands of the climate. Volumes appear to be down on last year, with Schloss Johannisberg reporting yields of 50-55hl/ha. General manager at Schloss Johannisberg, Wolfgang Schleicher, said: "Schloss Johannisberg is expecting a good vintage despite the problems. As last year, we are picking Auslese and Beerenauslese directly from the vine with very good results."

Hungary Hungary enjoyed one of its best-ever vintages, with high temperatures in July and August resulting in large ripe grapes which were harvested early. Although reports indicate production levels were not above average, character and quality have been compared with the great vintage of 1997. Both the indigenous and international white varieties are said to be excellent, while Merlot, Kkfrankos and Cabernet Sauvignon have been judged outstanding.

Tokaj Quality rather than quantity appears to be the message from Tokaj, although with the harvest still in progress final assessments have yet to be made. Vines flowered and ripened early due to some of the hottest and driest weather the region had ever experienced. General manager of Disznk, Lszl Mszros, said: "By the time the essential botrytis arrived the grapes were totally ripe, and in some cases over-ripe. Because of this unusually high sugar content, botrytis developed slowly and delicately, and with a hot, sunny autumn as well, the berries shrivelled at the same time to an amazing concentration. However, owing to this lack of rain, botrytis has affected only the densely bunched Furmint on the whole, with just a few Hrslevel grapes."

Bulgaria Bulgaria's moderate spring was followed by a long, hot summer. A little rain in August did not affect the concentration levels in the grapes. It will be a good vintage, and a year for reds more than whites, according to Ivan Zahariev, managing director of Bulgarian Vintners, now Mileworld. "Sugar levels are high and it is the driest vintage for four or five years. We have seen some of the best grapes in the last decade." Lovico International picked at 6,500kg/ha for Cabernet Sauvignon and 6,300kg/ha for Merlot, in the Suhindol region. Gamza yielded about 7,000kg/ha. In Chirpan, part of central southern Bulgaria, average yield by Lovico was 6700kg/ha for Cabernet Sauvignon and 6300kg/ha for Merlot. Lovico predicts a vintage as good as 1996.

Romania Halewood International reported high rainfall during winter and spring. This was followed by a dry and hot summer with temperatures reaching 40C in the Dealul Mare region. Rain returned in autumn, coupled with warm weather. The Murfatlar region in the south-east had a long period of wet and warm weather, providing good conditions for noble rot on Riesling and Chardonnay varieties. Aurelia Visinescu, winemaker for the Halewood Prohava Valley brand, said: "Pinot Noir in particular is showing great colour, soft tannins and good alcohol."