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The Daily Telegraph

Published:  23 July, 2008

A touch ruffled by being two hours late, JONATHAN RAY eventually arrives at the Sutton Grange estate in central Victoria, which also doubles as a stud farm. Total production is a mere 1,600 cases, and Ray describes the wines as 'elegant and restrained', which is not surprising, given that the winemaker, Gilles Lapalus, is French. Lapalus tells Ray that the wines destined for the domestic market differ considerably from those for export, as 'many Australians still think that anything under 15% alcohol is a girl's drink'. He adds that as Sutton Grange is a biodynamic winery, insect control has been a problem. However a novel solution was found. 'The other pests are grasshoppers, but in true French fashion, I put some garlic down and I haven't seen them since,' explains Lapalus.