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The Observer

Published:  23 July, 2008

They may be deeply unfashionable in the UK, but Tim Atkin MW is an unashamed fan of sweet wines, and given the choice, he says, would forego a dessert if one was on offer.
"Given the amount of work that goes into making them (especially in the vineyard, where grapes are sometimes picked individually), good dessert wines are unbelievably cheap," he says. "Even the finest bottles of Sauternes aren't expensive compared with other world-class wines."
Atkin points out just how diverse stickies are: "They range from 5.5% to 20% alcohol; they can be unoaked, sparkling or still, fortified or unfortified, and vary in colour from white to amber to purple. The only thing they have in common is residual sugar, but this can be anything between 70g and 700g."
His recommendations include 2004 Monbazillac, Domaine de l'Ancienne Cure (9.95, H&H Bancroft); 2007 Tempus Two Moscato (7.99, Tesco); and 2005 Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu, Slection des Grains Nobles L'Anclaie, Chteau de Pierre Bise (13.95/50cl, Lea & Sandeman).