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Richard Siddle dines at The Milroy

Published:  29 July, 2010

Walking into The Milroy you feel like you've stepped up a notch or two in social class, which is all part of its new-found appeal. Previously you were only able to dine here if you were rich enough to pay the membership fee for what is essentially a private casino - Les Ambassadeurs Club.


Located on the cusp of Hyde Park, The Milroy is situated in what used to be one of Henry VIII's hunting lodges and its interior is still modelled on the fin de siècle Louis XV style incorporated in the 1870s. Dining here certainly makes you feel one step closer to royalty.


The food is European traditional, dressed up with a serious modern twist. It's the kind of menu where you need the staff to explain at least two ingredients per dish. But this is no surprise as head chef Simon Foster was trained by Pierre Koffman at La Tante Claire.


Foams, juses and mousses run alongside Barnsley chops, ribs of beef, sole meunière and pan-fried skate.


The wine list is tilted to the Old World but evenly spread around the New World. With Cloudy Bay and Hunter Valley running up alongside Meursault, Pommard and Nuits St George. Under head sommelier Andres Lucas it features 200 bins, 10 by-the-glass at £7.50, and fairly priced bottles starting at £22.


Lunch here is a grand occasion. A step up and a step back in time. But well worth stepping up for.

 

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