Portugal buyers' trip: Jess Lomas
- Details
- Published on Thursday, 13 December 2012 12:08
- Written by Jess Lomas
On the back of the Harpers Portuguese buyers' trip Jess Lomas, manager of Peckams Glasgow tells us what stood out for her and what she learned from visiting the Alentejo, Tejo and Península de Setúbal regions.
What were your preconceptions of Portugal before the trip and how did these change?
I think my preconceptions were probably the same as a lot of British people who have never been there. I was looking forward to the sunshine and the wine. I was expecting to meet people who were passionate about what they were producing and hopefully to understand the wines more, something which I think you can really only get from being there first hand. Did this change? Not really, although it has made me confident that I know what I'm talking about and hopefully my customers will benefit from my insider knowledge. Being able to enjoy the wines with the people who are producing them, at the winery with food that has been produced there is a fantastic experience.
What is your overall impression of the wines coming out of the region?
The wines are very high quality and from what we saw, are being produced at competitive prices. We discussed at length the struggle that the winemakers have got on the international scene because they have stuck to native grapes that it can put some customers off as they may not have experienced wines such as Antão vaz or Touriga Franca and people mostly will stick to what they know. But at the same time that's part of the beauty for me; I love that Portuguese wine is a whole world to explore and escape the beaten track of Pinot grigio or Cabernet Sauvignon. I do see what the wine makers are doing when some of them are creating very good blends but perhaps adding Shiraz or another grape in where they see it benefiting the whole wine, to perhaps attract people in to trying something new. If you can look beyond what initially can seem like "odd" names for grapes, the quality of the wine is brilliant; we just need to be more adventurous in trying them. There is also a trend within the UK to look for single varietal wines, which we did find some of in Portugal, but some of the best wines were blends. I think more work needs to be done to convince consumers that blends are a good thing- not a way of masking inferior wines together. By blending different grapes together you are enhancing the final product; something which I think is often misunderstood by consumers who are often just looking for a single grape because it's perceived to be "better" somehow. But this isn't a problem for just Portugal, it can apply to other countries too.
Were there any particular producers or wines that stood out for you?
I think if I concentrate enough I can still taste the Herdade das Servas Branco. I found the whites to be particularly impressive; with lots of powerful aromas and fantastic flavours. There were some serious contenders in the reds though; the premium Comporta red which was made form 100% Alicante Bouschet was something really special. And one that I can see you would be able to cellar and enjoy in the years to come. Finally I was impressed with the sparkling wine from Quinta do Casal Branco which has beautifully crisp and dry finish. I enjoyed all the wines that we tried and the producers were so accommodating of us. It was a real privilege to be invited into the wineries and try their ranges. Not a drop of Mateus Rose in sight thank goodness.
How has the trip made you consider your Portuguese offering differently?
I think that the wines from Alentejo provide such a wide spectrum of flavours and tastes that there is a wine for everyone. It is just that a large chunk of the UK wine drinkers don't realise it yet. I'd like to see more wines from the region on the shelves as they will complement the range we already have, which is mostly wines from the north of Portugal as well as the more famous Ports. I realise that at the moment selling Portuguese wine is more of a hand sell until consumers become more familiar with the wines, but in my job that suits our business style. As a small independent retailer I think we are better placed to sell these wines; we have knowledgeable staff who can give customers the confidence to try something which is probably new to them.
What did you learn from the trip and what knowledge will you be imparting to customers?
I think that what I've taken from Portugal is that these wines are all very approachable and delicious; you just need to have the confidence to try them. I'll definitely be choosing the wines more often for myself. I realise that these often "alien" looking names on the labels can be confusing but I'll be working towards making them as easy to understand as possible for my customers. I'll know we've cracked it once we've got people asking if they can get another bottle of Aragonez. I've found that Portuguese wine makes much more sense when enjoyed with food, so I'll be looking to create some exciting food and wine matches from our deli to compliment the wines. On the deli front I'll definitely be recommending the fabulous (and too often overlooked) olive oils. They have so much flavour to them; my favourite was the one from Quinta do Casal Branca which had a fantastic black pepper kick to it. I want to help customers realise that Portugal produce excellent wines that should be enjoyed all year round and not just looked at for that Christmas bottle of Port.
What were your preconceptions of Portugal before the trip and how did these change?
I already had a pretty high opinion of Portuguese reds before the trip but was very aware that they needed a bit of selling as most customers haven't come across the quality end Portuguese wines. Being able to offer samples makes a huge difference and I think in a more traditional shop most sales would be limited to regulars with whom the staff have built a relationship and trust.
What is your overall impression of the wines coming out of the region?
The wines were excellent and offered good value in general. The whites in particular were eye openers, standing up to the reds in terms of quality but with a more distinctive character unlike any wines I have tried outside Portugal.
Were there any particular producers or wines that stood out for you?
I was particularly impressed with Herdade de Comporta, while all the wineries had great wines on offer, I think the quality and value of the wines, backed up with strong branding was very good and the depth of the range was very good.
How has the trip made you consider your Portuguese offering differently?
I will looking to increase the offering particularly of whites and think with a concerted push backed with a couple of tastings we can generate a real interest and hopefully lasting traction, I will look to do this late spring 2013.
What did you learn from the trip and what knowledge will you be imparting to customers?
The diversity of styles within a relatively small area is impressive but the main message is look for the indigenous grapes as this is where I felt the quality lay. I will for the main part try to let the wines speak for themselves in the first instance and try to communicate the story of the wineries and region after they have decided, I have always found a story is a good selling tool but the wine must be able to speak for itself if we are to get enduring interest. I think some of the wines we tasted are able to do this very well.
