Wines in the Press

However much we talk dry, we clearly adore drinking sweet,' says ANTHONY ROSE, and few countries churn out affordable sweet wines quite as cheerfully and cheaply as Australia'. He's thinking of 2005 Brown Brothers Orange Muscat & Flora, 37.5cl (4.79 to 7 January, Morrisons). Or for rich and voluptuous flavours, 1999 Chteau Filhot, Sauternes, 37.5cl (9.33 buy two get one free, Thresher) is a complex and stylish sweet Bordeaux white'. But Germany and Austria have every right to fight over the sugar-coated crown', too. For the quintessence of sweet white finesse, the 2003 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Riesling Auslese, Scharzhofberger, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 37.5cl (14.80, Jeroboams, Laytons) displays opulent yet delicately balanced sweet and sour tropical zest.'

MATTHEW JUKES' selection of festive choices is, he says, the easiest column of the year to write, as more effort has been put into perfecting sparkling wine than any other category of wine in the world over the past few years. Good cava is hard to come by outside its native country,' but 2001 Marqus de Monistrol Vintage Cava, Peneds, Spain (7.99, reduced to 3.99 until 31 December, Co-op) is a top wine, with a discount that seems very bizarre to me. This is the party wine of the year. I put my name on it, and as you know, I am a very fussy taster.'

JANE MacQUITTY insists that people shouldn't panic about whether they have enough wine for Christmas as most merchants accept orders for guaranteed pre-Christmas deliveries as late as 15 December. For your nearest and dearest, a magnum of Champagne looks especially generous, so plump for 1.5 litres of Pol Roger's delectable non-vintage white foil Reserve (55.95, Lay & Wheeler).'

I am invariably plunged into gloom at this time of year,' says JONATHAN RAY, but if I get our wine sorted out, it becomes a bit more bearable'. With smoked salmon on Christmas Eve, Ray suggests 2004 Tim Gramp Clare Valley Riesling, Australia (9.99, Adnams). Then, for the all-important following day, 2005 Tapanappa Tiers' Chardonnay (29.99, Telegraph Wine, Noel Young Wines, The Secret Cellar) is great with the turkey.

We can't get enough of sparkling wine at this time of year, but you should be suspicious of bargain-basement Champagne,' says TIM ATKIN MW. Its invariably acidic mouthwash.' His choice of ros Champagne is Delamotte Ros NV (23.97, Corney & Barrow), best branded non-vintage is Taittinger Prlude Grands Crus (24.99 each for three, Majestic; 34.99, Tesco) and top branded vintage Champagne is 1999 Bollinger La Grande Anne (from 49.99, Oddbins, Majestic, Thresher).

Instead of arranging wine by price, geography or the banal "dry and fruity" route, Christine Parkinson at London restaurant Hakkasan has come up with headings such as "Curious Vines: distinctive wines, unusual, often ancient, grape varieties. Not Chardonnay".' And it's working, says VICTORIA MOORE. Sales of a Piedmont white made from Arneis have risen eightfold'. This week's top bottle tip from Moore is the elegant' 2004 Condrieu Les Vins de Vienne, France (19.99, Tesco Fine Wine).

Tokaji is a wonderful wine to have to hand at Christmas,' says JOANNA SIMON. 1995 Disznoko Tokaji Asz 5 Puttonyos, 50cl (21.49, Oddbins) is rich yet tangy'; 1999/2000 Royal Tokaji Asz 5 Puttonyos, 25cl (8.99, Waitrose) has apricots and spice in a stocking-filler bottle'; 1999 Oremus Tokaji Asz 6 Puttonyos, 50cl (37.50-38, Fortnum & Mason, Berry Bros) is exceptionally opulent'.

When it is good, white Burgundy is unrivalled and the most sensational treat,' says JANCIS ROBINSON MW. The 1999s, 2000s and 2002s are drinking particularly well now, although few of them are still commercially available. Even the 2003s are becoming difficult to find', apart from the excellent Domaine Cordier'. 2003 Domaine Cordier, Les Vignes Blanches Pouilly-Fuiss (19.95, Lea & Sandeman) is positively exotic, with its aromas of bittersweet orange peel'. Most buyers will be nudged towards 2004, which is looking an increasingly attractive vintage for white Burgundy.' The 2004 Lequin-Colin, Les Charrires Chassagne-Montrachet (17.95, Stone, Vine & Sun) shows it's quite possible to find delicious Ctes d'Or whites under 20 a bottle'.

It's not always a good idea to give wine as a Christmas present, says SUSY ATKINS. Uninspiring bottles include the very big brands and cheap supermarket own-labels. Instead choose a classic, traditional label which screams "special"' - 2003 Campbells Rutherglen Muscat NV, Victoria, Australia, 37.5cl (7.99, Waitrose) for example, or 2003 Margaux Initial de Desmirail, Bordeaux, France (13.99, Marks & Spencer). Champagne Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV, France (28-31, available nationwide) is high up on my wish list because of its elegant, fresh flavours with rich notes'.

JAMIE GOODE has chosen a few bottles that offer something a bit out of the ordinary'. These alternatives include 2005 Via Leyda Pinot Noir La Brisas Vineyard, Chile (7.99, Oddbins). I'm not opting for the usual red Burgundy, but instead going for a Pinot Noir from Chile, combining cherry fruit with a subtle herbiness. Don't look so surprised: it's really very good.'