Focus on South Africa - Joanne Simon

While show convenor Michael Fridjhon noted the possibility that "the best Shiraz is made by boutique producers whose wines aren't available in the quantities this show requires", Shiraz was nonetheless the largest category.

Of 151 entries, however, only one was deemed good enough for a gold medal, two for silver and 14 for bronze.

It's not entirely surprising. As Jancis Robinson MW pointed out: "How can a third of South Africa's producers have access to Shiraz grown in the right conditions? Fashion or ambition has overtaken logic [resulting in] a lot of wasted effort and perhaps location."

Overall, it seems there is better site selection, vine age and greater confidence when it comes to white wines, which took 13 golds compared with eight for reds. "You have so many white wines with lots of personality and ageing potential, which so few other countries have outside Europe," said Robinson. "Don't overlook [this] in the constant challenge to get a modern red highlighted in Wine Spectator...".

Asked whether any discernible "South African-ness" has emerged, Steven Spurrier said: "There's a line of elegance that is quite remarkable. I could have thought myself judging European wines."

Robinson commented on "juiciness balanced by refreshing acidity", but Neil Beckett, perhaps worried that producers might now leap onto the freshness bandwagon, added: "Don't go over the top and add acidity if it isn't there in the vineyard."

Joanne Simon is a freelance wine writer based in Cape Town