Harpers.co.uk

Victoria Moore says the more interested in wine she gets, the more she's prepared to spend on it.
Sometimes and undemanding £5 wine suits, others she'll happily part with £10 or £15 for a bit more sophistication and finesse.

Tesco wine buyer Graham Nash says it's often fear, not excitement, that persuades people to part with a few more quid than normal. He calls this "the distress purchase - they want to make sure the wine's all right and can't think of any way other than spending a bit more".

Moore says, this is not misguided as couple of extra pounds in this price bracket provides a disproportionate boost to the amount you're spending on the wine itself (as opposed to the bottle, cork, duty). Unfortunately, in the other directions people go scooting towards well-known brands and regions for safety which is far from guaranteed to do them any favours.

The Times

In his new column, Tim Atkin MW, writes about the recent fake French Pinot Noir fraud, where a dozen Frenchmen were found guilty of selling incorrectly labelled wine to the E & J Gallo Winery.

Atkin says it's not the only recent scandal involving France's largest wine region. Nearly half a million bottles of counterfeit Fitou were rumbled in China last week, this time the fraudsters were Chinese, not French.

Allegations of nefarious goings on are numerous, but proof is hard to find, adds Atkin. Examples include the 1970 vintage in Rioja, which some estimate was sold at least twice over and cheap Italian Pinot Grigio, that was cut with everything from Trebbiano to tap water.

"So can you trust the wine in your glass? Yes, most of the time. The wine business is highly regulated, but even without the threat of legal sanction, most winemakers are honest. Wines generally come from the place, or places, that appear on the label and are made from the advertised grape varieties, too."

Financial Times

Jancis Robinson MW says, the words "Japan, wine exporter" have an unlikely ring, but the new organization, Koshu of Japan, is keen to shine an international spotlight on it's native variety.

The national government and local authorities are supporting this new initiative, a drive set in motion only last year by the single-minded Yamanashi wine producer Shigekazu Misawa of Grace Winery. "It is my dream to see Koshu wine recognised for the qualities I know it can have," he says.

Robinson says: "What appeals to me about Koshu is its very lack of brashness, its delicacy, purity, limpidity, and the way it goes so well with the calmer regions of the Japanese gastronomic landscape."

Telegraph

Only a generation or two back there was scant knowledge of white wine in this country, says Susy Atkins.

Apart from keen wine buffs, to most a glass of white was just that - not specifically a Chardonnay, Riesling or Sauvignon. "It's good to think that most people choose more wisely today, knowing, at least roughly, what the key grapes taste like," she adds.

Yet there is still a tendency towards the obvious, states Atkins, and asks, "what about more unusual whites?" She gives an example as wine from the Rhone Valley, which Atkins says she rarely sees on supermarket shelves.

The Marsanne and Roussanne grapes can deliver nutty notes, peach and a hint of ginger, she says and Viognier adds a scented apricot quality. It's the independent merchants that have the real gems, such as Yapp Brothers, in Mere, Wiltshire, adds Atkins. "So put down that Pinot Grigio and give them a ring".

Independent

Amarone della Valpolicella, has just been granted its DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata y Garantita) status.

Patricia Guy, an Italian wine expert living in Verona, questions whether quality is being cut and compromised. She says a genuine Amarone should smell of the drying process, of cherries and of spice that turns to incense as it ages.

Rose says, recent success has enabled producers to invest in improving the health and quality of a wine that was in danger of becoming old-fashioned. Modern Amarone is often made in a style that takes its place alongside powerful New World reds like Argentinian Malbec, Californian Zinfandel and Australian Shiraz.

He says a good introduction is Sainsbury's spicy, Taste the Difference Amarone 2006, (£14.69), but for greater flavour and intensity try the Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 2005, (£21.99, Tesco).

THE TIMES

Jane Macquitty recommends the "big, bold, oaky Boardeaux- apeing southern French red" the 2005 Domaine Tranquillite, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Bernard Magrez (£7.99, Majestic, or two for £4.99 each); the 2007 Marsannay Blanc, Louis Latour (£12.99 from Majestic or two for £9.99), which she concedes may not be the best '07 Burgundy she's tasted, "but there's easily a tenner's worth of fine, waxy, marzipan fruit here" nonetheless. She's also keen on the 2009 Gruner Veltliner, Terraces, Domane Wachau (down £2 to £5.99, Waitrose), which she urges her readers to snap up while they can.

THE DAILY MAIL

Olly Smith loves the sheer variety of Italian wines and the wealth of grape varieties. "Rich reds, crisp whites, sweet wines, fizz, you name it, Italy can do it - and with fierce pride in the quality of regional diversity," he says. He's won over by Ombra Prosecco (£9.99 or £7.99 as part of a mixed case from Oddbins). "Brilliant bubbly with a fruity refreshing character that makes it perfect as an aperitif," he enthuses.

He suggests it would be the perfect match with some top quality buffalo mozzarella cheese. While Pinot Grigio can be "overwhelmingly neutral", Smith says the finest examples come from the north, particularly Alto Adige, which can be "a world away from the water-like offerings that are all too often sloshed into our glasses".

He suggests trying Tesco's Finest Finao (£5.99 Tesco), which is "soft, white with a subtle aromatic twist....keep it on stand by in the fridge for a fun, refreshing welcome home."

Smith also recommends the 2008 Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio/Chardonnay (£14.31, Bibendum) which is also from Alto Adige. "Sensationally refreshing and pure white wine," he says. "Think crisp pear fruit with citrus brightness and pristine fresheness. Superb."

THE GUARDIAN
Victoria Moore can't wait for spring to arrive, so in anticipation of warmer weather has already uncorked a bottle of Provencal rosé. In this spirit of welcoming new beginnings, she concurs with Macquitty and also recommends Oddbins cut price Gruner Veltliner - "an Austrian white wine that I would recommend even at the full price", and enthuses about Averys Selection 2007 Alsace (£7.49, Averys).  "A white wine with a bit of everything - it reminds me of a soft of chef's salad. There's pinot blanc, sylvaner, pinot gris, gewurtztraminer, Muscat and chasselas too."

A white with more impact, she says, is Ca dei Frati Lugana 2008 (around £23.49, Roberson, Harvey Nichols, Highbury Vintners), from the shores of Lake Garda. "Who would have thought that Lugana could be so thrillingly good?" asks Moore.

THE OBSERVER

This week Tim Atkin MW recommends the 2006 Cotes du Rhone Domaine Pierre Usseglio (£10, Lay & Wheeler), which is sourced from vineyards on the edge of Chateauneuf du Pape. "This blend of Grenache and 20% Mourvedre is brooding and slightly raisiny with notes of dark chocolate," he says. He also admires the 2007 Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine des Lises (£15.95, Berry Bros), describing it as a "svelte, sexy cool-climate Syrah, showing aromas of violets, raspberries and white pepper."

According to Victoria Moore sweetness in Champagne is not just about personal preference, but is subject to changing fashions.

The Guardian

Once upon a time Cloudy Bay was so hard to get hold of, says Victoria Moore. It was the wine that forged New Zealand's glittering reputation for Sauvignon Blanc, and each shipment sold out before it even arrived.

But now as its 25th vintage is released, the stuff seems ubiquitous, and is stacked up in Majestic and Waitrose, she adds.

"So is it still stand-out good?" Moore confesses, not in her view. She says in a blind tasting of six New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs Cloudy Bay "failed to shine."

"It lacked vigour and excitement, and had a ­certain anonymity (fans might define it as "purity", but to me it tasted too dilute for the £18 price tag) common in crowd-pleasers."

Moore says she much prefers Greywacke 2009 (£12.99, tauruswines.co.uk).

She concludes: "The truth is, there are now so many good New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, there's no ­reason to pay through the nose for Cloudy Bay's."

The Times

On the subject of what wines to choose for Valentine's Day, Jane MacQuitty says the conventional gambit is pink Champagne, but she says she can't think of a more disheartening wine style.

Of the ten MacQuitty tasted for the article she says only two passed muster.

The winner was Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé Brut 1999 ( £60, Majestic Wine).

MacQuitty recommends the next best thing as a fine French sparkler, made from the Champagne method and from at least one of the region's grapes. She says Waitrose has dropped the price of its sparkling Burgundy, Blanc de Blancs from the Cave de Lugny, to £7.99 until Tuesday.

The Observer

Tim Atkin is talking about Valentine Day wines and how according to Alessandra Rotondi wine is "the perfect weapon of mass seduction".

Rotundi claims on her website (www.wineseduction.com), that she can turn a wine lover into a wine seduction expert in just one night.

Atkin says wine and seduction appear to be in vogue in the US. "One winery in the Napa Valley, O'Brien Estate, sells an Attraction Chardonnay, a Flirtation rosé and, best of all, a Seduction red, tastefully packaged in a diaphanous gift bag for Valentine's Day. All you've got to do is part with $45."

He says two wines that would seduce his palate are Champagne Larmandier Bernier Extra Brut 2004 (£55, Berry Brothers) and Sancerre Rosé, La Moussière, Alphonse Mellot 2008 (£14.29, Sainsbury's).

The Telegraph

Susy Atkins says the new Fundi wines from South Africa have some seriously right-on credentials. The brand which was inspired by the 2010 Fifa World Cup (hosted by South Africa) will donate its profits from all sales to train 2,010 wine waiters from disadvantaged backgrounds in the Cape.

Atkins says the project aims not only to help them progress in the hospitality trade, but also to build a new group of 'ambassadors' for South African wine.

"Great, but the wines had better taste good, says Atkins, "and, hurrah, they do."

They're not cheap at £14.99, but Atkins believes they compete well with other premium South African reds.

The Express

Drinking pink was once deeply unfashionable, but rosé has surged in popularity over the last few years, says Jamie Goode.


It not only looks inviting but tastes good too. 

Goode adds the majority of bottles are wonderfully easy to drink, making them perfect for thosewho are new to wine, or averse to drier whites and reds. 
"Some say it's for summer only - but I say bring on the rosé whatever the weather."

He recommends Griffith Park Rosé NV, Australia (£6.98, Asda), which he says is utterly delicious, and affordable and Champagne Duval Leroy Rosé NV( £29.99, M&S).


Goode says: "Pink champagne is coloured by adding a touch of red wine to get the desired hue. When enjoying this lovely example, you'll taste strawberry and herb fruit and a lovely freshness. It's a pure refined fizz to share with that special person."

Victoria Moore is advising on "what not to drink". She says, the wines that follow would have her reaching for the water, no matter how hard a day she's had.

Picking the worst from the top supermarkets, she calls Sainsbury's Argentinian Pinot Noir 2009, (£4.99) "turgid" and Sainsbury's Chilean Sauvignon Blanc 2009, (£3.22) "horrendous".

On to Tesco, Moore says, bad claret reminds her of a cardboard box that's spent the past year in the porch with dirty shoes sat on it. She names as an example; Tesco Vintage Claret 2007 (£5.99).

On the up side, she specifies that nothing tried at Waitrose is quite as horrifying, but adds, only "patriotism" would make her part with £10.99 for Bookers Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006.

She reveals Asda's "real teeth-gritters" as Nederburg Winemasters Reserve ­Sauvignon Blanc 2009, South Africa (£6.48) and M de Murviedro Rosé 2008 (£5.48).

The Observer

On visiting the vineyards of the De Morgenzon farm in Stellenbosch, Tim Atkin, MW, says you will hear pieces by Bach, Corelli and Albinoni which are piped through outdoor speakers.

Vineyard owner, Hylton Appelbaum, claims his vines respond to a very particular style of classical music. But rock, pop, rap, techno and jazz don't have the same effect. What they enjoy is something harmonious and melodious; such as baroque music.

Atkin asks: "How does he know the vines are responding to the music?" The answer is they apparently grow more vigorously and look more healthy.

Appelbaum's claims to have scientific backing, adds Atkin. In 2007, researchers at South Korea's National Institute of Agricultural Biotechnology found classical music triggered a response in two specific genes (rbcS and Ald) in rice plants.

In the same year, Trakya University in Turkey found "relaxing, calming and mentally invigorating music" had a positive effect on root growth in onions during germination.

The Telegraph

Susy Atkins asks: "Should you go for red or white wine with pork belly?" In her opinion you could do either, as long as your white is in the fulsome, fruity style, but she adds, she's inclined to opt for red in two out of three cases here.

Atkins thinks pork rillettes, served on their own, are a doddle to match with red and recommends peppery Rhône reds, red Bordeaux or an inexpensive New World Cabernet-Shiraz.

Pickled figs complicate matters, she says, because they introduce "that notorious wine-killer, vinegar". She recommends sticking to a red with relatively high acidity, either a simple, youthful Tuscan or Loire.

Verring away from reds Atkins chooses Burgundy for dishes crisp pork belly with a salad of potato and quail's eggs, a dish, she says, that works better with the crispness of white.

The Times

Bob Tyrer says, it's only now being realised quite what a vintage 2008 Burgundy was. Now that the wines have been tasted "they're being treated as a miracle."

He says he was having a knee operation on the day of the tasting, so didn't get to sample them.

Chris Davey is the Burgundy specialist at the importers OW Loeb, says Tyrer and urges people to read his, "joyful introduction to its 2008 Burgundy offer at owloeb.com, which overflows with enthusiasm and intimate knowledge".

Some of Tyrers other recommendations are; Joseph Drouhin Rully 2006 (£12.99, Waitrose), Domaine Ballorin Côtes de Nuits Villages 2007 (£14.95, Roberson) and  Beaune 1er Cru Jadot 2002 (£19.95, Cambridge Wine Merchants).

Victoria Moore is having a rummage through the Wine Society warehouse at its Stevenage HQ. She says there are several un-surprises, including many of the society's own labels such as a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, made by Viña Leyda, and ­Argentine Malbec, made by Susana Balbo - "nothing but the best for the WS".

What the national wine critics have had to say in this week's WINES IN THE PRESS