Wines in the Press: Ways to enjoy seventy-five centilitres of fun

Tuesday, 16 September 2008

Jane MacQuitty indulges in a spot of armchair shopping, Jancis Robinson learns where not to mention the 'S' word and Tim Aktin enjoys "seventy-five centilitres of fun" with some Sauvignon this week. Meanwhile for those with cash to flash, Antony Rose's column makes for inspiring reading...

Jane MacQuitty, The Times, Saturday 13 September 2008

Since so many high streets are nowadays bereft of a good wine shop, says Jane MacQuitty, we could all do worse than to consider the merits of buying via mail order or online. And plenty of merits there are, she points out, in the likes of Tanners, Yapp Brothers and Berry, Bros and Rudd. With quality on the up and prices slimming down, wine is still a value-for-money pleasure to enjoy, credit crunch or not.

MaQuitty's top picks this week are:

• 2007 Salena Estate Chardonnay, South Eastern Australia, (£5.99, Morrisons)
• 2007 Salena Estate Shiraz, South Eastern Australia (£5.99, Morrisons)
• 2007 Villa Wolf Silvaner, Ernst Loosen, Weingut Wolf, Germany (£7.49, Oddbins)
• 2007 Two Hands Brilliant Disguise Moscato, Borossa Valley, Australia (£8.99, Oddbins)
• 2007 Springfountain Unfiltered Terrior Selection Chenin Blanc, Walker Bay, South Africa (£11.35, Private Cellar)
• 2005 Marsannay, Joseph Roty, Burgundy, France (£18.89, Private Cellar)

Jancis Robinson MW, The Financial Times, Saturday 13 September 2008

The pace of change is slow in Alsace when it comes to what seals the deal on the tops of wine bottles. The ‘S' word is remains pretty much an unmentionable - screw caps seem to top only 1% of Alsace's wine stock. Even Jean Trimbach, one of the region's most admired family producers, wrinkles up his nose at the mere mention of the ‘S' word by Jancis Robinson this week - despite the fact his wife works for the company that owns the world's biggest screw cap producer.

Victoria Moore, The Guardian, Saturday 13 September 2008

High-alcohol wines are on Victoria Moore's menu this week, and they don't come much higher than the "whopping" 16.5% Californian Zinfandel she recently tried for size. A higher alcohol content is good for making wines taste "hotter, sweeter and more fiery", Moore concludes, but its shelf life is somewhat limited; as the fruit fades and the tannins soften, you're in danger of being left with little more than an "unwelcome" taste of alcohol. It's much easier to go for a wine with "structure, personality and warmth without being too heavy," such as:

• 2007 Domaine Haut-Lirou, Pic St Loup, France (£8.99, Majestic)
• 2007 Freisa d'Asti Giacomo Borgogno, Italy (£8.99, Caves de Pyrene)
• 2004 Château Moulin de Canhaut, France (£8.99, Marks & Spencer)
• 2006 Valpolicella Ripasso, Italy (£5.99, Marks & Spencer)

Anthony Rose, The Independent, Saturday 13 September 2008

Somewhere in Europe, a clever wine investor is about to make a killing on 40,000 cases of 2000 Bordeaux. Purchased shortly after their release, Anthony Rose estimates that the anonymous entrepreneur is about to make somewhere in the region of £1.3 - £1.6 million for his efforts. Joe Average might only be able to dream of having the cash to stump up for such returns (Rose estimates that the investor in question bought many of the cases for a cool £1,600 each) - but at least his loss will be the consumer's gain when the stock is unleashed. On a slightly less extravagant note, Rose's picks this week are:

• Kendermanns Beerenauslese (£3.99, Tesco)
• 2005 The Hedonist Shiraz (£8.99, Waitrose)
• 2006 Condrieu, La Chambée (£28.95, Berry Bros)

Jamie Goode, The Sunday Express, Sunday 14 September 2008

Jamie Goode is reassured by regular reports that a "modest consumption" of wine is linked to a reduced risk of heart disease. He's been tasting tipples to accompany healthy recipes. Goode recommends:

• 2007 Asda New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (£7.48, Asda)
• 2007 La Differénce Viognier Muscat, Languedoc, France (£4.98, Tesco)
• 2007 Casillero del Diablo Shiraz Rosé, Chile (£6.99, Morrisons)
• 2007 Villa Maria Rose, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand (£7.99, Tesco)
• 2005 Vergelegen Mill Race Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, South Africa (£8.69, Majestic)
• 2005 The Hedonist Shiraz McLaren Vale, Australia (£8.54, Waitrose)
• 2005 Katnook Founder's Block Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, Australia (£9.99, Oddbins)

Tim Atkin MW, The Observer, Sunday 14 September 2008

"Seventy-five centilitres of fun" is how Australian producer Bob McLean describes a bottle of wine, and Tim Aktin is inclined to agree. Scientists might be interested in the "LOX-HPL pathway in Sauvignon berries" (as discussed at the recent World Sauvignon Blanc Conference in Austria) but there are much simpler ways to determine what makes a good Sauvignon Blanc says Aktin; namely whether it gets better with age. Most Sauvignon wines are best consumed young, but there are some gems worth keeping. Aktin suggests the following:

• 2007 Montes Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, Chile (£6.49, Waitrose)
• 2007 Dry Creek Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County, California (£8.99, Majestic)
• 2007 Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc, Constantia, South Africa (£9.99, Majestic)
• 2007 Taste the Difference Sancerre (£10.49, Sainsbury's)
• 2007 Villa Maria Single Vineyard Ensor Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand (£12.99, Budgens)