Wines in the Press: Washington, South Africa and the rise of M&S

Peter Grogan sings the praises of Washington wines, Jamie Goode comes over all fruit and nut, and Jancis Robinson's tastebuds experience something of a sense of déjà vu this week. Tom Atkin meanwhile might not be a fan of Marks & Spencer's undies collection, but when it comes to its wines it's a different story...

Peter Grogan, The Telegraph, Saturday 20 September 2008

Washington in the US has just achieved its first supermarket listing in Britain (The 2006 Steak House Cabernet Sauvignon can now to found at Co-op stores, priced £9.99), which is perhaps what prompts Peter Grogan to focus on the region this week. In fact, the region is the country's second biggest producer (behind California, obviously) and, according to Grogan, outputs some of the "fresher, brighter flavours in wine" thanks to its cooler temperatures (in the winter, at least). Judge for yourself with this selection of Grogan's picks:

• 2006 Chateau Ste Michelle Riesling, Washington State (£7.99, Noel Young Wines)
• 2004 Duck Pond Merlot, Washington State (£11.10, Tanners Wines)
• 2006 L'Ecole No 41 Semillon, Washington State (£14.85, The Wine Treasury)

Jancis Robinson MW, The Financial Times, Saturday 20 September 2008

Jancis Robinson observes a taste phenomenon this week, and it's not a good one. Thanks to the production of commercial yeasts, she says, wines from around the world are beginning to taste increasingly similar. "One prominent New Zealand winemaker claims he can make any required style of Sauvignon Blanc from exactly the same grapes, provided he can choose the yeast." This is a growing trend, made possible by the commercial yeast suppliers perhaps favoured by the "nervous winemaker" that Robinson really finds "deeply depressing".

Victoria Moore, The Guardian, Saturday 20 September 2008

South Africa might not be attracting attention these days for the most glamorous of reasons (the relatively weak position of the rand against the pound and the short harvest in Australia post 2007 being big reasons) but one way or another, the country's wines are elbowing their way onto supermarket shelves, writes Victoria Moore. Its Chardonnay and Shiraz are experiencing a "rush of interest", with sales now up 13% in the off-trade following a "wretched" 2006. Moore recommends:

• 2007 Noon Gun Flagstone (£7.99, Tesco)
• 2007 Iona Sauvignon Blanc (£9.99, Waitrose)
• 2006 Raats Cabernet Franc (£16.99, Harrogate Fine Wine)
• 2007 De Grendel Winifred (£9.59, Oddbins)

Jamie Goode, The Sunday Express, Sunday 21 September 2008

Jamie Goode cracks open rich bottles to accompany nutty recipes this week - fruit and nuts being "classic partners" in wine. It's a white-based list with an emphasis on "richer grape varieties like Chardonnay and Viognier", with a couple of reds thrown in for good measure.

• 2006 Blason de Bourgogne Pouilly-Fuissé,Burgundy, France (£9.98, Asda)
• 2007 De Grendel Winifred Chardonnay Viognier Semillion, Durbanville, South Africa (£9.59, Oddbins)
• 2005 Les Quatres Clochers Chardonnay Reserve, Limoux, France (£7.19, Tesco)
• 2007 The Boulders Viognier California, USA (£4.99, Co-op)
• 2007 Adobe Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley, Chile (£6.75, Vintage Roots)
• 2005 Château Etienne La Dournie St Chinian, Southern France (£9.29, Leon Stolarski)
• 2006 Pirie South Pinot Noir, Tasmania, Australia (£8.99, Majestic)

Tim Atkin MW, The Observer, Sunday 21 September 2008

Tim Aktin doesn't buy his undies in Marks & Spencer ("am I the only person who doesn't own an item of M&S underwear?"), but whilst its collection of Y-fronts might not be to his taste, its collection of wine increasingly is. A steady improvement in its collection over the past five years recently culminated in the supermarket taking home supermarket of the year at both the International Wine Challenge and the Decanter World Wine Awards - "almost unprecedented for a supermarket". From its current range, try:

• 2007 Rosso di Puglia, IGT, Casa Girelli (£4.49, Marks & Spencer)
• 2007 Cuatro Rayas Verdejo, Rueda (£5.99, Marks & Spencer)
• 2007 Knappstein Ackland Riesling, Clare Valley (£9.99, Marks & Spencer)
• 2007 Saddleback Pinot Noir, Central Otago (£14.99, Marks & Spencer)

Jane MacQuitty, The Times, Saturday 20 September 2008

"With small harvests, a strong euro, duty and freight increases, inflation and increased costs, I have no idea how wine buyers make any money on £3.99 wines," writes Jane MacQuitty this week. Nonetheless, it is this price point - and lower - gracing many a supermarket shelf during these tough ecomonic climes. "For all the talk of encouraging customers to trade up, supermarket wine buyers have fallen over themselves this autumn to resurrect £3.99 wines - and even resuscitate £2.99ers, a price whose death rattle was first heard years ago," comments MacQuitty. If you're assuming that most of what's on offer equates to the likes of Blossom Hill and Gallo, you'd be wrong. MacQuitty has sniffed out some true bargains from this "unexpected autumn windfall", such as:

• 2007 Fiano, Cantine Settesoli, Tesco Finest (£3.99, Tesco)
• 2006 Nero d'Avola, Cantine Settesoli, Tesco Finest (£3.99, Tesco)
• 2006 Viña Albali Valdepeñas Tempranillo-Cabernet (£2.99, Tesco)
• 2007 Asda Soave (£2.98, Asda)
• 2007 Asda Chilean Chardonnay (£3.18, Asda)
• 2007 Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, Asda (£3.18, Asda)

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