Wines in the Press: Chardonnay and PX are back in vogue

Tuesday, 07 October 2008

Some unfashionable wines get some good publicity this week; Jancis Robinson MW sings the praises of sweet Spanish PX varieties and Jamie Goode attempts to reverse some of the damage Bridget Jones has inflicted on Chardonnay in recent years. Elsewhere, last month's Dispatches programme on the use of chemicals in wine is still a talking point; this week Jane MacQuitty has her say.

Jane MacQuitty, The Times, Saturday 4 October 2008

The Dispatches programme about the use of chemicals in wine production continues to cause ripples and this week, it's the turn of Jane MacQuitty to have a pop at a programme that "smacks of elitism". As far as MacQuitty is concerned there is a time and a place for "ordinary, great value wines" that may have seen the odd oak chip in the fermentation tank. And besides, is it really productive to pick on the "miniscule trace elements" found in wines when the labels on some of the foods on our supermarket shelves read like a science experiment? (Cue MacQuitty's dissection of the ingredients listed on the back of a pot of a children's yoghurt brand. Phosphate and potassium sorbate. "Yum").

MacQuitty's picks this week are:

• 2006 Finest Denman Chardonnay, Hunter Valley, Australia (£3.99, Tesco)
• 2007 Finest Block 7A Viognier, South Eastern Australia (£5.19, Tesco)
• 2007 Enclos des Pins, Vin de Pays d'Oc, France (£5.99, Marks & Spencer)
• 2007 Baglio Rosso, Nero d'Avola, Italy (£5.49, Marks & Spencer)
• 2006 Pouilly-Fuissé, Moulin du Pont, Maison Auvigue, France (£13.99, Corney & Barrow)
• 2005 Chocapalha, Estremadura, Portugal (£17.79, Corney & Barrow)

Jonathan Ray, The Telegraph, Saturday 4 October 2008

If you've never really given much thought to the design of your wine glass, you could be missing a trick. An originally sceptical Jonathan Ray ("I usually don't give a fig about what I drink from") spent some time at Dartington Crystal in Devon, Britain's last remaining major glass manufacturer, and left a changed man. "Blow me, there are marked differences between the wines depending upon the glass from which they are supped", he reports. Bear in mind that embarking on such an experiment yourself might prove expensive work, unless you have the cash to buy a different glass for every different grape variety.

Top deals from Ray this week are:

• 2005 Durius Tempranillio, Spain (£6.49 or £4.47 for two, Majestic)
• 2007 Errazuriz Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile (£7.19, reduced to £4.79, Waitrose)
• 2005 Josmeyer ‘Le Dragon' Riesling, France (£14.95, Wine Society)

Jancis Robinson MW, The Financial Times, Saturday 4 October 2008

Jancis Robinson turns her attention to sweet, Spanish PX wines, determined to defend their "unfashionable" reputation by pointing out some of their good points. For a start, Robinson points out, PX wine improves in an open bottle, meaning it can be kept for weeks. Secondly, it's sweet enough to turn plain old vanilla ice-cream "into a feast". And thirdly it's a useful standby in the kitchen - well at least it is if you're in the business of rustling up the occasional dish of pan-fried foie gras, seared scallops and black pudding with PX caramel. If you are up for giving PX a whirl for any of these reasons, then Robinson recommends the 1927 Alvear Solera or the 1981 La Aurora, amongst others.

Tim Atkin MW, The Observer, Sunday 5 October 2008

Last week Jane MacQuitty told us not to invest in wine. This week, Tim Atkin tells us it might not be such a bad idea if you're prepared to get in quickly. There are signs that the wine market is beginning to plateau, he says, but generally speaking, you can still expect an average return of around 12% per annum. Atkin has ten simple rules for investing in wine. If you go wrong with any of the first nine (which include comparing prices before you buy and preferably buying en primeur) then at least you've always got number ten, which is that you can always drink your investment.

Whilst you're waiting for your investments to mature, crack open one of these:

• Taste the Difference 12-Year-Old Pedro Ximénez (£7.19 per 50cl, Sainsbury's)
• 2005 Montsant Old Vines Garnancha (£8.99, Marks & Spencer)
• 2006 Château Le Chec, Graves (£9.75, Adnams)
• 2006 Benmarco Malbec, Dominio del Plata, Mendoza (£11.99, Majestic)

Joanna Simon, The Sunday Times, Sunday 5 October 2008

Sainsbury's has "lost its way" according to Joanna Simon. Its Taste the Difference range pips Tesco's Finest in the taste stakes, but too many of its other wines are just "run of the mill". A recent tasting of 27 of its £4 and under range left Simon in "despair". Even Aldi is doing better in Simon's eyes, with an impressive quality to value ratio - this lot all get her thumbs up and give change from a fiver:

• 2007 Vignes de St Pierre Sauvignon Blanc (£3.99, Aldi)
• 2003 Rioja Reserva, Ramon Lopez Murillo (£4.99, Aldi)
• 2007 Mâcon-Villages, Henri de Longères (£4.99, Aldi)

Jamie Goode, The Sunday Express, Sunday 5 October 2008

"Blame Bridget Jones, or those apricot-juice Aussies we quaffed back in the 90s, but Chardonnay is falling out of favour" notes Goode. Determined to re-ignite the nation's passion for this good old classic, Goode has taken the time to select a selection with "pleasant plumpness, and bready or toasty notes". Picks include:

• 2007 Errazuriz Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley, Chile (£6.99, Sainsbury's)
• 2005 Tesco Mâcon-Villages, Burgundy, France (£4.98, Tesco)
• 2006 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California (£14.99, Waitrose)
• 2006 Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé, Burgundy, France (£13.99, Tesco)
• 2005 Millton Gisbourne Opou Chardonnay, New Zealand (£10.99, www.vintageroots.co.uk)
• 2006 Domaine Vessigaud Pouilly Fuissé Vieilles Vignes, Burgundy, France (£17.99, Oddbins)
• 2007 Oxford Landing Chardonnay, Australia (£5.99, Majestic)