Wines in the Press, January 17-18

The Observer
With the South African wine industry about to crack open the bubbly to celebrate 350 years in the business of winemaking, Tim Atkin turns his attention to this venerable wine making country. He points out that while it was South Africa that produced the southern hemisphere's first great wine - Contstantina - nowadays, it is companies that have emerged in more recent times such as Ken Forrester and Ken Point that get all the attention.

However, wine makers such as Meerlust, Kanonkop and Rustenberg have been around for over a century and shouldn't be dismissed. The first two have benefited from the input of relatively new winemakers, and are "remarkably consistent" says Atkin, "producing a range of very good to excellent wines".

He recommends the "elegant, finely crafted" 2005 Kanonkop Paul Sauer, Stellenbosch (from £17.99, Tesco, The Wine Society); the "gamey, Burgundian-style" 2004 Meerlust Pinot Noir, Stellenbosch (from £18.99, Fortnum & Mason, Planet of the Grapes) and the "super-ripe blockbuster all-Cabernet Sauvignon" 2005 Rustenberg Peter Barlow, Stellenbosch (£24, Waitrose).

The Times

Drink your way round the world without moving from the sofa, advises Jane MacQuitty. Simply select a bottle that transports you to another place, and serve it up alongside the food you ate whilst away.  She debunks the old myth that wine can't travel, provided you let it rest up for at least a week before opening.


To combat cold grey winter days, winter whites need to be full of flavour and alcohol. She recommends the 2008 Tingleup Great Southern Riesling (£6.99, Tesco) for being as "spectacular as the scenery it comes from, all spicy, verdant kerosene-scented fruit", as well as the "gorgeous, ripe, waxy yet steely, petrol and peach-stashed" 1994 Efdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese from Dr Hermann, (£8.99, Majestic wine, or buy two for £7.99 each).

The Sunday Times
With prices being slashed all around, Joanna Simon says to beware of some so-called bargains.


Rosés don't improve with keeping, any more than most white wines, and Proseccos and cava should be drunk young, she says, so steer clear of any bottles you think have been hanging around for a while.


However, Riesling ages well, while Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Viognier fade quickly. Among reds, Pinot Noir is short-lived, especially New World Pinot, while Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah/Shiraz are longer lasting. And remember that wines from the southern hemisphere are usually at least six months older than their counterparts from America and Europe.

Some bargains that Simon likes include the half price 2008 Finest Tapiwey Sauvignon Blanc, (£3.99, Tesco) which she describes as "zesty and gooseberry-scented"; and the 2006 Richard Leroy Anjou Le Clos des Rouliers, (Vine Trail, £14.82 during January only), which Simon says is a "superb dry white Loire".

The Financial Times
With belts being tightened as the credit crunch squeezes, Jancis Robinson looks at what wines offer the best value for money. She advises French wine drinkers in search of a bargain to stock up now before new shipments at less favourable exchange rates begin to dominate the shelves.

Look to the southern Rhône, where you can find a good selection of reds, and a few whites, for between £5 and £8. The Rousillon is also a good hunting ground for bargain hunters in search of good value reds. Robinson recommends Marks & Spencer's 2007 Grenache Noir Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes, £5.99.

As the world's biggest wine region, the Languedoc inevitably offers wine of varying quality, but Robinson commends Mont Tauch in Fitou and Corbieres country. One of her favourites is Fitou Les Douze, a "fiery, well structured blend" (£6.99, Majestic).

Beyond France, Robinson says that Spain has long been a source of some of the best value reds, particularly Garnacha, such as the Marks and Spencer Old Vine Garnacha Montsant for £8.99 and 2007 La Sabrosita, reduced to £4.39 until January 31. Rioja can also offer rich pickings for those on a budget, especially among the fruity young reds. Bargain Italian wines are a little more difficult to track down, says Robinson, but there is a wealth of well priced Chianti and Valpolicella and Dolcetto out there.


Outside Europe, Robinson says there are many bargains to be had, though South Africa is the only country to have benefited from recent shifts in currency. "South Africa has long been arguably the world's best value source of white wine bargains, and this phenomenon has only intensified in recent months," she says.

Red wine is also improving rapidly, though Chile supplies the UK with more good value red at under £6 a bottle than any other non European country, she adds.

The Guardian
Victoria Moore worries about the impact of escalating duty on wine, which she fears will encourage wine drinkers to slide even further down the quality scale. "Tax on alcohol becomes a tax on taste," she says.

But things could be even worse if the Government follows Sweden's system where alcohol is only sold via government run monopolies. While the system has been effective in transforming the Swedes from a nation of hard drinkers to having the lowest alcohol consumption in Europe, it means the government decides what wine you drink, and limits choice.

Moore recommends Asda's 2007 Pinot Grigio delle Venezie (£3.75, Asda; ) which she describes as "crisp, fresh and clean with a hint of lemon". She also likes 2006 Balcon de la Villa Toro (M&S, £5.99; 14.5% abv), "an attractive, easy, knockbackable and good value red made from ungrafted Tempranillo and aged in American oak".

The Independent
Anthony Rose reports that overpricing for the past four years and the likely lack of global demand for a lacklustre vintage could result in no en primeur campaign for the 2008 Bordeaux vintage this year. But he says this is no great loss, as even if prices drop back to 2004 levels when disposable income is scarce, you'll still be able to buy these wines at similar prices - or less - in years to come.


And the same may apply to Burgundy too, he says, whose 2007 vintage has just been tasted in London. A dismal summer has produced at best "pretty reds, wine merchant speak for mostly average, early-drinking wines". The whites, however, have had a better reception, being described as "excellent" and "brilliant" by respected Burgundy experts.

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