Wines in the press February, 1-2

THE TIMES
Jane MacQuitty is disappointed that the wine bargains she was hoping for have failed to materialise. While she was expecting loads of "mouthwatering, cut-price grand cru burgundy and cru classé claret on offer" the reality was a few bottles that were "shockingly out of condition".


British wine merchants should know better than to try to fob off their sales customers with dross, reprimands MacQuitty. Bargain hunters should bear in mind that the average optimum drinking window for a fine red burgundy from recent top vintages like '05, '06 and '07 is between 5-10 years, and claret from great vintages like '05 and '00, followed by '06 and '04 7-20 years plus. Good red Rhônes are swifter maturing and I'd be happy to tuck into lesser wines from their leading '05, '06 and '07 vintages now, with the big Rhône guns best broached in 5-12 years.


And don't lose your head just because the prices look keen: remember that New World wines age much faster than Old World wines and last year's rosé or beaujolais nouveau, despite merchants' claims otherwise, will be "dead as a dodo."


MacQuitty advises her readers to hunt out bottles of vintage champagne in the sales; " What these lose in fizz they gain in delicious, rich, nutty complexity," she claims. She also rates "undervalued, old, single-estate German rieslings" as well as "unloved, old age-dated sherries". Also worth snapping up are lesser single-quinta and even vintage ports from 2003 onwards.


This week she recommends the "smashing" 2007 Quinta do Ameal (Corney & Barrow, £7.21, 020-7265 2430), "a zesty, lime and freesia-scented Portuguese white made from the loureiro grape" She also likes McManis Limited Release Chardonnay, California ( £3.99, Tesco, until Tuesday). "melon, vanilla and oak-layered '07 is a steal". She also likes the 2008 Southbank Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand (£5, Asda until Feb 9) which has "all the signature flowering currant and tropical fruit scents and tastes of a classic Marlborough sauvignon."

THE SUNDAY TIMES
An unusual, and not immediately obvious, money-saving tip from Joanna Simon this week, who advises readers to attend a wine course. "This may not sound like an economy measure," she concedes, "but learning how to taste and assess quality properly will save you money in the long run."

She recommends Michael Schuster's classes for both beginners and on fine wines, especially as you can offset the cost of the course by signing up to wash the glasses at £10 an hour afterwards. Alternatively, sign up to ecome a Wine Angel, a new business that has been likened to a combination of Face Book and a farmers' market. Wine Angels (nakedwines.com) pre-pay £5 a month towards a case and get a third off the normal price to start.

This week Simon lavishes praise on the 2008 Raats Original Chenin Blanc (£5.66 Wine Angel/ £8.49), which she describes as "a delicious, dry, sappy White,"; and the 2007 Domaine Haut-Lirou Pic Saint-Loup, a "stylish, syrah-based French red with spicy smoky sweet fruit" (£6.99, Majestic).

THE SUNDAY TELEGRAPH
Susy Atkins declares she's a little tired of Australian Chardonnay, and points out that the country has much more to offer than full-on oaky whites. Aussie Riesling, for one, offers a "deeply refreshing blast of lime juice and is brilliant with food,". She also recommends readers to try verdelho, with its "unusual" flavour, and Australian dry Muscat which "actually tastes of green grapes - funny how so few whites do).

She likes Brown Brothers Dry Muscat, (Tesco £5.99), an "easy-drinking, but relatively light aperitif"; and Tim Adams Pinot Gris 2008 (Wine Rack £15.99 or £10.66 each for three), which Atkins describes as a "succulent, appley and off dry white that deserves to be paired with the best ham or pork and some fruity sauce."

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