Wines in the press, February 14-15

The Independent
Anthony Rose raises a sceptical eyebrow to the Valentine's Day celebrations, but finds himself in general agreement with the press release which said: "Even for those who consider Valentine's Day to be a cheesy, opportunistic marketing ploy, it's still a good excuse to pop open the pink."


Rose reports: "Pink effervescence has improved so enormously from the days when it was just a by-product." Bollinger Rosé, (Waitrose, Fine Wine, Majestic, Berry Bros, £55) is "gorgeously seductive" while 2004 Louis Roederer Brut Rosé (Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Fortnum & Mason, Planet of the Grapes, £59.99-£65) is a "study in luxury, with its foaming mousse of bubbles".

Rose also confesses a love affair with Marks & Spencer's "strawberry fruity, joyously juicy Prosecco Rosé" (on offer at £5.99) and Fresita Sparkling Rosé (Sainsbury's, £4.99, reduced from £6.99) - a "medium-sweet Chilean wine blended with real Patagonian strawberries" which is "as frothy, light and fun as candy floss, and less saccharine".


The Times
Jane MacQuitty echoes Anthony Roses's endorsement of Bollinger Rosé, but complains that in general "this year's blushing crop of Valentine's Day bottles is as tacky and sugary as those padded, lovey-dovey cards". She concludes: "There are no bargain-basement pinks worth drinking this year."


But MacQuitty does love "Lanson's smoky, lemony Brut Rosé" (Tesco, £25.53). Although bored by jammy still rosés from 2007, MacQuitty reports that 2008 Terra Andina Carmenere Rosé (£5.49, Oddbins) is "perky, pretty, deep rose pink" and excellent value. To round off a Valentine's Day meal MacQuitty's personal favourite is 2007 Stella Bella Pink Muscat from Australia's Margaret River (£7.99, Oddbins): a "gorgeous, ripe, grapey, musky, mouth-watering pink".


Financial Times
Jancis Robinson MW was an impartial observer as a group of Californian wine businesswomen spent a week with female counterparts in Bordeaux. It followed a visit to Napa last year by a group of Bordelais women. "The groups and the get-togethers have no name and no first in command; one might say they are truly female in both these respects," reports Robinson.

Last year the French were impressed by the Californians' selling and marketing skills, and the general openness. The Californians, for their part, were interested to learn how the Bordelais made wine from rocky soils with earthy aromas, using the same grapes as they are familiar with in Napa. "A return match in California is scheduled for early next year when the women plan to ask some prominent women in wine from other countries," Robinson says. "These meetings, I can't help feeling, result in a new-found respect on all sides."


The Observer
Amarone della Valpolicella, like Port and Madeira, was invented by accident, Tim Atkin MW points out. Modern Amarone, ("that's to say wines that are clean and fruity as opposed to vinegary and dried out") dates back only to the 1980s. Atkin reports that a recent tasting in Verona proved tough going, not just because of high alcohol levels but also "the palate-coating effects of residual sugar and, in the ultra-modern styles, lots of new oak".

Matching Amarone to food is no simple task, either - some Italians say they are best enjoyed in splendid isolation. Although claiming that "nine times out of 10 I'd rather drink a good Ripasso or a straight Valpolicella with food", Atkin endorses 2005 Speri Amarone della Valpolicella (£20, 15%, Marks & Spencer); and the "sublime" 2004 Ca La Bionda Amarone Ravazzol (£34.50, Passione Vino), which he describes as "a delicate, almost Pinot Noir-like red that belies its alcohol and will develop over the next five years".

The Sunday Times
Joanna Simon predicts price rises this year, and pruned supermarket ranges, and suggests now is a good time to stock up for the year. The strength of the euro has made life harder in the UK for France, Italy and Spain and the dollar's sudden rise is hitting California, Argentina and Chile. "So that leaves Australia (no longer flavour of the month), South Africa (in with a strong chance this year) and New Zealand (also in with a chance, thanks to overproduction of its fashionable Sauvignon Blancs and the likelihood of price falls as a result)," she reports.

Recommendations include 2006 Château Le Chec, Graves Blanc (£9.75, Adnams) and 2006 Olivier Fichet Terroir de Burgy, Mâcon-Villages, (£8.50, Stone, Vine & Sun).

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