Wines in the press June 26 - 28

What the critics have to say in this weekend's news.

Guardian

Victoria Moore is trying to find the best possible wines for the lowest prices?

“I’ve been looking for the most delicious bottles at under a fiver, and here are a few I’ve not mentioned before,” she says.

Moore recommends Asda Pinot Grigio 2008 (£3.98). “It doesn’t have a high IQ and isn’t over-burdened with personality but is an immaculately sharp-edged thirst-slaker to wash away a summer afternoon.”

For an extra 70p, in the same store she suggests Paul Mas Rosé 2008, Vin de Pays d’Oc (£4.68).

In Majestic she plumps for Marco do Pegoes Terras do Sado Tinto 2007 (£4.99, down from £5.99 when you buy two as part of a mixed case) and describes it as being a bold, feisty red blend that is superb value for money and one for the BBQ.

Moore says for a constant supply of wines under a fiver, go to her website howtodrink.co.uk .

Observer

“Bored of tasting the same old wines?” Tim Atkin asks. “Then I may have just the thing for you. It’s dry, inexpensive and has oodles of personality: it’s called Torrontés,” he says.

He explains that this little-known Argentinian grape has the potential to be the next big thing and that everyone he shows it to in blind tastings adores it. “They love its perfume, they love its flavours, they love its personality,” he adds.

Some people dismiss Torrontés as a one-dimensional variety, a grape that’s all bouquet and no substance.

But the more examples I taste, the more I disagree, says Atkin.

He tells us, when he judged a wine competition in Argentina earlier this year, the panel gave more gold medals to Torrontés than to Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc combined.

For less expensive versions he recommends 2008 Asda Argentinian Torrontés, Trivento (£4.30), or 2008 La Esperanza Estate, Cafayate (£5.99, Marks & Spencer).

If you want to splash out then Atkin recommends 2008 Trapiche Broquel Torrontés, Cafayate (£9.99 www.laithwaites.co.uk).

“A wine that contains 5% Sauvignon Blanc for added freshness, is the business,” he says.

Financial Times

Jancis Robinson is looking at each vintage of the top red Bordeaux at 10 years old from what she describes as a, “less than glorious vintage”.

She explains that one problem that some producers experienced was that the fruit, which she says, had clearly never been especially intense, seemed to be fading faster than the tannins were resolving themselves. This resulted in wines such as Ch Petit Village 1999 Pomerol and Ch Rauzan Ségla 1999 Margaux seemed to be drying out, with acidity rather than fruit coming to the fore, says Robinson. 

“I feel sure that had today’s Bordeaux winemakers been faced with such a vintage, the extraction and the tannins would have been more skilfully managed – as in, say, 2007 and 2008,” she adds.

But there were many attractive wines too – very much in the classic claret mould of being quite elegant and harmonious rather than knocking any taster’s jazzily modern socks off, says Robinson. 

For example, the cheapest and most modest wine we tasted, Ch Bernadotte 1999 Haut-Médoc. “Light but expressive enough and beautifully balanced.”

Although only 19 of the 53 wines we tasted were from the right bank of the Gironde, Robinson says. They strongly suggested that early picking Pomerol was one of the most consistently successful appellations.

As for when to drink them, she adds. I thought some of the St-Emilions and Pessac-Léognans were already in their prime, while the more serious examples from the other appellations should drink well throughout the next decade. Robinson suggests the wines to cellar for a while yet, other than the left bank first growths, seemed to be Léoville Las Cases (as usual), Grand Puy Lacoste, Pichon Longueville (Baron), Montrose, Cos d’Estournel and La Mission Haut-Brion.  

“Bring on the 2000s,” she says.

Independent

Anthony Rose talks about PR company Westbury Communications making life easier for wine writers after recently holding a Syrah and Shiraz wine tasting, that he says, enabled journalists to compare Old and New World styles.

He says, the Rhône itself was well represented by Domaine Chantegut Vacqueyras 2006, (£12.99, Oddbins) and the  Domaine des Garennes, Minervois 2006,( £9.99, Marks & Spencer).

France’s biggest rival in the Syrah stakes is, of course, Australia, Rose says, where the Syrah is metamorphosed into Shiraz.

Fox Gordon Brothers and Sisters Shiraz 2005, (£9.89, M&S Wine Direct), he explains, “is sweeter, richer and more powerful than its French counterpart”.

He says. Chile and South Africa are beginning to show the benefits of getting in on the Syrah act and recommends Undurraga’s T H Syrah, (£11.99, Qpwines.com).

Telegraph

I had a glorious glass of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc yesterday, except that it came from South Africa, says Jonathon Ray.

He adds, “I would have bet at least one of my Ashes tickets that it was from Marlborough, but nope, it was a single vineyard 2007 Kumkani Lanner Hill made by Nicky Versfeld”.  

Ray asks, “Does all this mean that Sauvignon Blanc is in danger of becoming the Chardonnay de nos jours, condemned to a dread uniformity?”

“Absolutely not,” answers Kate Radburnd, who makes excellent – and very un-Marlborough-like – Sauvignons at CJ Pask Winery in New Zealand’s Hawkes Bay. “It’s very flattering that other countries are seeking to emulate us, but they won’t ever be completely the same, just as my Hawkes Bay wines will never be the same as those of Marlborough.”

Ray says, but in a sign that the market might be overheating, Kiwi sauvignons in UK supermarkets are now cheaper than ever. 

And in California there are fine examples. It was here, of course, that the late Robert Mondavi coined the term “Fumé Blanc” to lend a bit of Loire cachet to his unfashionable Sauvignon Blanc, explains Ray.

Imagine that, Sauvignon Blanc unfashionable!

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