Product News - Harpers.co.uk

Sommelier Diary - Laurent Richet
Written by Carol Emmas   
Monday, 16 August 2010

Sommelier and head barman/cocktail specialist - Hotel TerraVina

 

Things are business as usual after myself and chef de partie Neil Cooper won Gastronomy Team of the Year 2010. It wasn't really a stressful day for us, it was our first time entering the competition, so we had no...

 
Carol Emmas reviews Roux at Parliament Square
Written by Carol Emmas   
Monday, 16 August 2010

It was a sad day for me when the peace protesters were removed from Parliament Square - where some had camped for almost a decade.

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VIP Producer - Winegrowers of Ara
Written by Carol Emmas   
Thursday, 29 July 2010

Ara is a large, single estate in Marlborough at the confluence of Marlborough's Wairau and Waihopai rivers. It lies on a 1,600ha terrace laid down by the river systems that existed 20,000 years ago. To the Maori people of New Zealand, Ara means "pathway".

 

Philospohy
General manager of viticulture and winemaking Damien Martin says its point of difference is to take a pathway that's different to everyone else. "We like to concentrate on a traditional approach and wines that are a bit more European in style - a lot of extract and a bit more on the mid and back palate."

 

Vineyards and viticulture
One of the vineyard's special features is the vine density - 4,000-5,000 vines per hectare - which is more than double that of conventional Marlborough plantings. The high density and low yields are comparable to Old World viticultural techniques.

 

The Wines
There are three tiers - Pathway, Composite and Resolute. Pathway Sauvignon Blanc (rrp £7.99) and Pinot Noir (rrp £9.99) are both available at Morrisons. Composite Sauvignon Blanc (rrp £9.99) and Pinot Noir (rrp £12.99) comprise the best grapes from 190 parcels of vines blended together. Resolute Sauvignon Blanc (rrp £15.99) and Pinot Noir (rrp £19.99) are from a single-parcel handpicked collection "formed of love".

 

Top people
Commercial director Sue Henderson and chief executive Christine Pears.

 

Visit winegrowersofara.co.nz.

 
Richard Siddle dines at The Milroy
Written by Carol Emmas   
Thursday, 29 July 2010

Walking into The Milroy you feel like you've stepped up a notch or two in social class, which is all part of its new-found appeal. Previously you were only able to dine here if you were rich enough to pay the membership fee for what is essentially a private casino - Les Ambassadeurs Club.


Located on the cusp of Hyde Park, The Milroy is situated in what used to be one of Henry VIII's hunting lodges and its interior is still modelled on the fin de siècle Louis XV style incorporated in the 1870s. Dining here certainly makes you feel one step closer to royalty.


The food is European traditional, dressed up with a serious modern twist. It's the kind of menu where you need the staff to explain at least two ingredients per dish. But this is no surprise as head chef Simon Foster was trained by Pierre Koffman at La Tante Claire.


Foams, juses and mousses run alongside Barnsley chops, ribs of beef, sole meunière and pan-fried skate.


The wine list is tilted to the Old World but evenly spread around the New World. With Cloudy Bay and Hunter Valley running up alongside Meursault, Pommard and Nuits St George. Under head sommelier Andres Lucas it features 200 bins, 10 by-the-glass at £7.50, and fairly priced bottles starting at £22.


Lunch here is a grand occasion. A step up and a step back in time. But well worth stepping up for.

 

 
Carol Emmas reviews Inter Beaujolais
Written by Carol Emmas   
Thursday, 29 July 2010

Unless you've been residing on another planet these past few weeks, it's unlikely the hype of the 2009 Beaujolais vintage has passed you by. Xavier Barbet, vice-president of Inter Beaujolais, says this is the best vintage he's ever seen.

 

I have to say it's nice to have a Beaujolais revival because when Gamay is good it's a joy to behold. Plus it sits so well with what the consumer wants these days: it's light, not a high abv, tastes good chilled and is a great food wine. It also stands out on its own in terms of individuality and style.

 


All 12 appellations were on show, from the light, frivolous and fruity through to the more serious and complex. There were a couple that fell a little flat , but there were many more delightful, luscious and succulent wines on show and it's these that will have the consumer coming back for more.

 

Some of the more complex wines were good to savour and good value on the pocket. But to me it's about making hay while the sun shines and I'd be opting for the bright-fruited fun aspect - and there's plenty of that to be had this year.

 


Henry Fessy Beaujolais Rouge 2009 (Louis Latour Agencies) had a colour you'd want on your palette as well as your palate. Red-purple in the glass, it had a lively nose of raspberry and violets, with upbeat, red berry fruits to taste.

 


Domaine du Vissoux Beaujolais Rouge Coeur de Vendange 2009 (Enotria) was a gluggable wine, with cherry and raspberry flavours backed by firm tannins and a succulent finish.
Les Vins Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Villages 2009 (Berkmann Wine Cellars) had vibrant red and purple fruit that skimmed and teased the palate and delivered a long, juice-laden finish.

 

Domaine de la Madone Vieilles Vignes Fleurie 2009 (Thorman Hunt) showed aromas of violets and dark red fruit, intense flavours of liquorice, a touch of spice, good acidity and lively tannins.


But it wasn't all about the reds. There were a few whites under the Beaujolais Blanc appellation and the Château des Jacques Grand Clos de Loyse 2009 (Hatch Mansfield) showed a fresh, clean nose with lemons and nuts on the palate and a good level of minerality.

 
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