Chablis' motley Grands Crus

The recently formed Union des Grands Crus de Chablis (UGCC) enjoyed its official inauguration in the Yonne last weekend amidst controversy about the use of machine harvesting and the absence from its ranks of several of Chablis' best-known domaines. The promotional body, which aims to "defend and promote the quality of Chablis Grand Cru wines", used an extensive tasting of wines dating back to 1959 to highlight the quality of the region's wines. "There's never been a tasting like this," commented UGCC president, Michel Laroche, who added that the organisation had enabled producers to work together in a new way. "We used to say hello to each other in the street; now we taste together." The UGCC, which was inspired by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, has 19 members and represents 70 out of a total of 100ha in Chablis' seven Grand Cru vineyards. While the Union includes some of the appellation's leading names - Laroche, Billaud-Simon, Pinson and a revitalised William Fvre - it has failed, so far at least, to persuade producers such as Jean-Marie Raveneau, Jean-Paul Droin, Maison Joseph Drouhin and Vincent Dauvissat to join. There is also a measure of disagreement among existing members about machine harvesting. Some, such as Jean Dauvissat, argue that hand picking does not confer any qualitative advantage; others believe that mechanical harvesting is inappropriate for Grand Cru sites. The UGCC will discuss this topic, according to Michel Laroche, as well as maximum yields, plantation densities and chemical fertilisers. The idea is to publish a Quality Charter and to establish a self-policing Tasting Commission, which will award a quality symbol to UGCC wines.