Harpers.co.uk

Unless you've been residing on another planet these past few weeks, it's unlikely the hype of the 2009 Beaujolais vintage has passed you by. Xavier Barbet, vice-president of Inter Beaujolais, says this is the best vintage he's ever seen.

I have to say it's nice to have a Beaujolais revival because when Gamay is good it's a joy to behold. Plus it sits so well with what the consumer wants these days: it's light, not a high abv, tastes good chilled and is a great food wine. It also stands out on its own in terms of individuality and style.

All 12 appellations were on show, from the light, frivolous and fruity through to the more serious and complex. There were a couple that fell a little flat , but there were many more delightful, luscious and succulent wines on show and it's these that will have the consumer coming back for more.

Some of the more complex wines were good to savour and good value on the pocket. But to me it's about making hay while the sun shines and I'd be opting for the bright-fruited fun aspect - and there's plenty of that to be had this year.

Henry Fessy Beaujolais Rouge 2009 (Louis Latour Agencies) had a colour you'd want on your palette as well as your palate. Red-purple in the glass, it had a lively nose of raspberry and violets, with upbeat, red berry fruits to taste.

Domaine du Vissoux Beaujolais Rouge Coeur de Vendange 2009 (Enotria) was a gluggable wine, with cherry and raspberry flavours backed by firm tannins and a succulent finish.
Les Vins Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Villages 2009 (Berkmann Wine Cellars) had vibrant red and purple fruit that skimmed and teased the palate and delivered a long, juice-laden finish.

Domaine de la Madone Vieilles Vignes Fleurie 2009 (Thorman Hunt) showed aromas of violets and dark red fruit, intense flavours of liquorice, a touch of spice, good acidity and lively tannins.

But it wasn't all about the reds. There were a few whites under the Beaujolais Blanc appellation and the Château des Jacques Grand Clos de Loyse 2009 (Hatch Mansfield) showed a fresh, clean nose with lemons and nuts on the palate and a good level of minerality.

The most enjoyable part of my job is to familiarise all passengers about the fine wines we have onboard the Venice Simplon Orient-Express.

A new absinthe plays on the notorious history of the spirit, with a skull depicted on the front label.