Jury's out on the miracle vintage

Everyone and everything is pointing to a near perfect Bordeaux harvest, but as Richard Siddle discovers it is too early to say what effect that will have on UK prices for the 2009 vintage or eventual quality and styles of the wines.

If there is one thing the Bordelais are not short of is self confidence. After what some are describing as the "perfect harvest" hopes are extremely high for Bordeaux's 2009 vintage. Following depressing and poorly received harvests in 2207 and 2008 the timing could also not be better for a wine region that, even though they would probably not admit it, is in need of a bit a boost.

How much of a boost the 2009 vintage proves to be is open to debate, but even if only some of the early predictions come true then Bordeaux could well have the world at its feet again - economic crunch or not.

There are some on the ground, however, who are not getting too carried away. Jean Christophe Mau at Chateau Brown and Chateau Preuillac says it is too early to get too carried away, other than "the speculators market will go up for 09". "It (prices) could well be 10-20% higher overall depending on market conditions, what Parker and other wine critics and journalists have to say. But yes, prices will go up, and first growth will be very, very expensive," he says. "But importantly it will also bring good publicity for Bordeaux, and create some excitement like in 2005."
But he concedes the economic situation is very different, and therefore hard to make too many comparisons. "We are living in a different time and the economic mood was very different then," he adds.

The UK's Bordeaux buyers are not likely to roll out the red carpet just yet, but concede they may have to start dusting it down. Simon Staples, Bordeaux buyer at Berry Bros & Rudd, who has just returned from a recent visit to the key Bordeaux houses, says: "They do look pretty pleased with themselves it has to be said. But it is too early to say. On paper everything looks good, the weather has been pretty special there, and it is the first time I have been invited to taste juice at such an early stage."
But he also says the market is very different to the last great vintage in 2005. "We also have to look at the fact we are 40% away from those prices down to currency as well. SO it's going to be interesting to see how it develops, but we are not going to see the first prices until next April or May and hopefully something will have moved on currency by then."

Much, he stresses, will rely on when they can actually start tasting the wines - around February - but he says "they know they are sitting pretty".

"They know that if the UK does not buy into it then Asia most definitely will in any case," adds Staples. "But it's going to be exciting and that's what we want."

Sebastian Payne, Bordeaux buyer for the Wine Society, is also just back from Bordeaux. "I tasted some splendid vats of merlot in Pomerol with Christian Moueix, and also at Haut Bailly with Bob Wilmers and Veronique Sanders. I also saw some very good things in the Entre Deux Mers with the Despagne family. There were smiles all over the Medoc, though, there was still a fair bit of Cabernet Sauvignon to be picked.

"Nobody will know for sure how good the wines will actually be until after Christmas and even then there is much that isn't known about their development.
Nevertheless there is great optimism all over Bordeaux and every reason to suppose there will be good to very good wine made at all levels of price, which is what the market needs."

He says the difference between now and 2005 is that "there is still a lot of unsold stock of previous vintages everywhere". "But one can expect Bordeaux and everyone
anxious to raise prices to milk 2009 for everything they can. As far as drinkers are concerned, it should not be necessary to pay top dollar to get good wine," he predicts.
Bordeaux Index warn a lack of potential interest from a depressed US market may muddy the waters a little, but agrees "it is looking to be the best wine harvest in Bordeaux since 2005".

Oliver Sharp, associate director at Bordeaux Index, says: "The pricing of the wines will very much depend on global interest in the vintage. Four years ago the build-up to the 2005 en primeur campaign was heavily hyped by Americans under favourable economic circumstances which gave green light to the chateaux to release their wines into the market at unprecedented prices. However, today's fine wine market has changed immeasurably; the current economic climate is much subdued and where the US once ruled now the Far East is king. That, combined with Asia's reluctance to buy into the en primeur culture, means high release prices even in a ‘miracle' vintage are not necessarily attainable."

He adds: "The real test will be the tastings in six months time. As for release prices, one can only speculate."
Philippe Cazade, export manager at negociant, Yvon Mau, says regardless of the final price the 09 vintage will give Bordeaux a much needed shot in the arm. "The appellation overall is suffering, but it is hidden behind the headline figures for the Grand Crus Classes. But in volume terms Bordeaux has been declining for a number of years and it is getting more and more difficult with not only competition form the New World but Italy, Spain and the cost of production elsewhere," he says.

Pierre Lurton at Chateau Cheval Blanc is in no doubt. "I think this is going to be an outstanding vintage. It has arrived like a dream, with hot days, cool nights and then the rain came just as the grapes were getting a little stressed. I am not sure how that will work in terms of price, but it will be a fantastic image for Bordeaux," he says.

Many will remember the Bordeaux harvest this year for near perfect weather, but as Panos Kakaviatos explains, varying picking times will also highlight different wine styles

"It will be a vintage known for its diversity," said celebrated oenologist Jean-Claude Berrouet of Petrus in Pomerol. "Some will make wines of freshness; some will make sun wines," he predicted. "It depends on the timing of the harvest."

In St Emilion, Jean-Pierre Taleyson, cellar master at Chateau Troplong Mondot, said Merlot was picked between October 2 and October 10, with alcohol levels reaching 15.5 degrees. ‘We have a late-ripening terroir, so we always harvest late, along with Pavie, Pavie Macquin and Tertre Roteboeuf,' he explained. Two parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon were picked on October 20.

By contrast, cellar master Stéfan Bonnasse at nearby Chateau Canon said: "With such great weather over the summer and early autumn, I cannot understand why some were picking as late as October 20."

At Chateau Canon, young vine Merlot was picked between September 23-25, followed by old Merlot between September 28 and October 1, before ending with the Cabernet Franc between October 2-6, almost two weeks before the end of the harvest at Troplong Mondot.

Gildas d'Ollone, general director at Chateau Pichon Comtesse in Pauillac, said he could not recall "so many varied picking times in a harvest". Wine consultant Denis Dubourdieu said Cabernet could be picked later this year and fine wine still would be made, but at Pichon Comtesse d'Ollone said he would not allow too much concentration to set in, risking a loss of freshness. "Especially because the style of Pichon is more delicate," he added.

At Chateau Léoville Barton in St Julien, Merlot was picked until September 27 and the Cabernet Sauvignon harvest ended on October 3. Neighbour Léoville Poyferré started picking Merlot on September 29 and only began picking its Cabernet after October 3.
"We see no reason to rush; we think we will get more from the grapes" said Michel Rolland, the famous oenologist who consults Léoville Poyferré. "It is an intuitive decision based on tasting the grapes," he explained.

"I cannot say who is right, but I could see no reason for waiting any longer," remarked Léoville Barton owner Anthony Barton. "There is a risk of losing freshness," he added. "We want to make wines with vivacity."

Several observers underscored the importance of mid September rain to relieve vines suffering from mild water stress. Rainfall varied - 50mm in parts of St Emilion, 27 mm in Pauillac - but most producers said it had helped to soften hard, thick grape skins. Even after the rains, shrivelled grapes could be seen on almost every vine, said Marc Duvocelle, viticulture director at Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste in Pauillac. "This vintage could have been like 2003 but the rains helped to soften the skins," he says.

"The September 19 rain was needed to relieve mild water stress," said Bordeaux enologist Nicolas Vivas. "Cabernet grapes were perhaps better able to take advantage of that relief, because they had more time to mature after the rain," he explained.

Jean Christophe Mau at Chateau Brown said the day of rain in September had come at an ideal time to relieve some of the stress that was occurring in the grapes and help with their final maturity. It also meant they could afford to pick a little later than usual. Here Merlot was picked from October 2 with Cabernet Sauvignon following not until around October 13-14.

For Mau one of the key differences of the 2009 vintage is the good yields it has produced with around 50 hectolitres per hectare at Chateau Brown compared to around 35 in the tough 08 vintage. "Our average is about 42," he says.

In any case, time proved luxurious in 2009. At Chateau Bélair-Monange in St Emilion, Christian and Edouard Moueix joined harvesters on September 30. "We are just lucky to have the time to wait for ideal ripeness," said Edouard Moueix. On the Left Bank, Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste owner François Xavier Borie echoed: "‘The key was the great weather leading to and lasting throughout the harvest," he said. "Absolutely no stress for the harvesters, no need to rush, and people had a feeling of serenity about them, and pride in their work."

"The skins are like leather," adds Rémi Edange, assistant manager at Domaine de Chevalier while tasting Cabernet Sauvignon grapes on October 1. "They are not green but hard, and the juice inside is terrific. But when you have thick, hard skins like this, you do not want to pump over or pigeage too much because you could force out hard tannins,"' he explained. "In 2005 we would not be having this conversation [about hard skins]; they were thick, but more supple," he said.

Jean-Claude Berrouet stressed high natural alcohol potential in Merlot will accentuate extractability and urged gentle extraction during fermentation.