Looking Back, Forging Ahead Q&A: Richard Bigg, Camino and Bar Rioja

By Harpers Editorial

Published: 24 July, 2023

Mid way through 2023, Harpers is taking stock of yet another turbulent year for the drinks trade, with plenty of highs and lows, so far. We continue our series with Richard Bigg, founder of Camino and Bar Rioja (pictured with wife Inma), to find out how the year as gone so far, and what the remainder may bring.

How has business been for you in the first half of 2023 and how do things compare to where you were last year?

Like the whole of hospitality, it’s been a pretty rough ride with the horrendous energy costs, compounded by the strikes, not to mention all the WFH which us Brits are doing more of than almost all other countries, though at least that’s beginning to ease up a little now.

But rather than moan about it, we’ve been proactively looking at ways to draw people in to offset the issues and drive more sales. Our approach has been to tackle things with an approach I came across on a Disney training course, years ago of “It’s not our fault, but it is our problem”. We have been engaging the whole team into thinking of ways of doing this.

Read more: Looking Back, Forging Ahead Q&A: John Colley, Majestic Wine

How has the cost-of-living crisis played out across the year and what – if anything – have you been able to do to mitigate that?

Differently from what I had expected. Logically, I would have thought it would mean that people would spend less when they go out, so was expecting the bars to do better than the restaurants as the spend per head is of course generally less in a bar. Yet it’s been the other way round, both at our music-led Big Chill bars and at the Camino sites, which are half bar half restaurant. The only reason I can think of is that compared to going to a bar, dining out is more of an experience, which increasingly is what people are wanting these days.

Whilst WFH has had a major impact on daytime trade on Mondays and Fridays in particular (not a lot you can do if the people simply aren’t there), we can at least drive the restaurants as a destination in the evenings.

There is also no doubt that the younger generations are drinking less so we need to emphasise the experience more, eg making it more of a party with the DJ nights at Big Chill, more live music events at Camino King’s Cross in the courtyard and collaborations with drinks companies at both brands.

We also have a project about to happen to get street presence at Camino King’s Cross which will give it a new bar and entrance into the restaurant. We’re refurbishing the interior, too. This should help get passing trade through the doors and hopefully result in a significant impact on sales throughout the week.

What are you most proud of achieving this year? Have you managed to achieve any specific goals?

In January, we refurbished the ground floor at Big Chill King’s Cross working with B3 Designers and it now looks fantastic.

Bar Rioja is a new venture. We converted our much-loved sherry bar Bar Pepito at Camino King’s Cross into a dedicated Rioja bar, selling only wines from the region. That was a labour of love, a hell of a lot of work, but huge fun. It’s a cosy, intimate space that spills out onto the terrace and has been going down very well, I’m happy to say.

We also opened a bar called Outpost in Stratford by East Bank which is a cultural quarter at the heart of Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and very close to the West Ham stadium. This has really picked up and the area is getting busier all the time.

And what is the biggest cause for concern?

There is definitely more than one. Ever since Brexit, it has remained hard to get staff of the calibre we used to have, so we can only work harder and making the place even better places to work and enhance our reputation as a good company to work for.

Also, the duty hikes. What is the government thinking? It will only drive customers away and push businesses into administration.

In the short to medium term, there are the energy costs and strikes, too. But these can’t remain problems for ever.

What are the biggest drinking trends at the moment, and how do you expect that to change going into the autumn?

No & low. I’d also love to see more great beers with lower abv that still taste great.

Is Covid now a distant dream, or are you still seeing lingering effects?

I think it’s had an impact on some people’s approach to work. Getting paid to sit on the sofa during the pandemic seems to be taking a while to shake off the feeling of entitlement for some in terms of work ethic.

Any predictions for the second half of the year?

Things settling down – and whilst costs remain high, many are also earning more to off-set the higher prices the industry is forced to charge.

Quick fire questions…

Old World or New?

Old, but with innovation. Just check out what’s happening in Rioja for an example, with phenomenal winemaking breaking away from the traditional oak-ageing system.

Cocktail or slow sippin’ spirit?

Sippin’ spirit. An Armagnac or a bourbon.

Vermentino or Vermouth?

Vermouth. A classic on a hot sunny day with ice and a slice.

Low or no?

Low. Low-alcohol beers that still have depth and flavour, but weigh in at only 2.5% or 3% still make for very enjoyable drinking.

Three star or bistro?

Bistro every time. More fun, more social, full flavours, no formality.

Best variety/wine style for pairing across multitude of dishes?

Easy…sherry is without a doubt the world’s greatest food-matching wine category, in all its different styles.

Desert island tipple?

Just one? That’s tough!

I would say a fabulous Palo Cortado sherry, aged a good 20 years, or maybe a deep crisp fino or an aged Albariño to go with the fish I would be catching.

Or as it is a desert island after all, how about a perfectly made daiquiri… Oops, that’s 4!

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