Restaurant review: Bar Tozino

Bar Tozino, Lassco Ropewalk, Maltby St, London SE1 3PA;

Tucked into one of the stall shops found on the Ropewalk as part of the Maltby Street Market in London, is Bar Tozino, a hidden gem that has quietly found a following – especially for those who love great tapas and sherry.

The bar was started by Zac Fingal-Rock Innes and his business partner Chuse Valero. He attributes some of his success to the time he spent working at Brindisa, while studying anatomy, that introduced him to the world of jamón carving. “Most of what I have been doing I learned there. We used to go through ten hams in a week,” he says.

In January 2012, after learning the jamón-carving skills and while working at Selfridge’s as a cheesemonger, he and his business partner started running a stand at the Maltby Street Market.

His father, who had a deli when he was a kid, was also a wine merchant and the idea to start offering wines, a red and white from Rioja, was born.

When an enclosed shop stall on the street became available, the two jumped at the opportunity. The space is just how one imagines a local bodega in Spain, with jamóns hanging from the ceiling.

There are five jamón offerings that range from £5-£15 for a regular serving, are hand-carved and all list the vintage and the producer, as well as the region from which the jamón originated, much like wine.

The team at Bar Tozino hand-selects the jamón they decide to import and frequently travel to Spain on the hunt for great producers. There are seven different charcuterie plates priced from £5-£10 and daily hot specials that range from £4-£6.

The wines offered include four whites and five reds, all available for between £4-£10 a glass and by the bottle. There are seven sherries on offer, mostly from Delgado Zuleta, one of the oldest family-owned wineries in Jerez, ranging from £4-£7 per glass.


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